House Training A Bird

House Training A Bird

Are you tired of your bird pooping on your shoulder? Or even worse pooping in the whole house as she flies about in house? Did you know you can potty train your bird?

Bird potty training is very similar to potty training a dog. This is characterized by taking your bird out immediately after it wakes up, right after it has had its meals wait patiently until he does its stuff and then praising him after.

Most birds have some sort of instinctive desire not to poop on much beloved human perch. It is not known how it evolved but it’s a real fact universally known.

So what bird potty training entail? The most important trick is to get in the habit of picking up the bird every few minutes. This takes a lot of timing to figure out when the bird has to go. Then hold the bird over the trash can, cage or wherever you deem appropriate, and after a few minutes there will be a “plop” and you can take your bird back to its cage.

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Below are some tips if followed to the later will ensure that you have a smooth training and you will not break a sweat.

• Just before going, most bird will do an unusual squatting and will give you a hint to put down the down on its appropriate poop object other than your shoulder or your hand.
• Be consistent. Take out the bird immediately after meals and place him over his poop site and let him go.
• Be patient. Do not force your bird to sit over the trash can longer than it seems reasonable. If he doesn’t  go try again a few minutes later but never hurt or scold him
• If you own Lovebirds, then you are very lucky. These birds have stronger instincts and have a sense of reason not to poop on the human.
• When opening the bird cage in the morning, try and wait  until the bird poops before letting him out. Make sure to open the door very soon after the act, or else the bird has no reason to associate the action with the result.
• Similarly, you may try waiting until the bird poops to let him out of his cage at other times of the day.
• It might take only a few days for some birds or it might take weeks! Eventually, it usually is up to the instructor's patience and persistence.
• If potty training is too frustrating for you and the bird, it may be just best to live with the occasional mess rather than get everyone upset.

In any case, those are the basics! Remember, take it easy. Birds aren't that intuitively into the potty-training business. There will always be mistakes normally caused by a distracted human who didn't read his bird's body language, or who forgets how long it had been since the last birdie potty session. But still, in good cases, the mistakes can go down by nearly 90% or more and wouldn't that be great?

How to Litter Train a Bunny: A Beginner's Complete Guide

House Training A Baby Bunny

Rabbits are as you would expect clean animals, and house training a rabbit to use a litter tray is not as demanding as you might think. Just gather your supplies, set up the litter tray, and train your rabbit to use it.

Gathering Supplies

Buying a litter pan.

Rabbit litter pans or boxes are designed with a raised back that is used to prevent the litter from flying when the rabbit scrapes. A low front is another feature of the litter that enables easier hopping of the rabbits into the litter box. It is not a must to get the special rabbit tray, you could use a regular cat litter tray with lower sides or even a low cardboard box that can be easily prepared and replaced once the rabbits chew on it. Then you could line the bottom of the tray with old newspapers and this will make it easier for you to clean the pan out.

Get the right litter.

Never use clay based cat litters or clomping cat litters. These kinds of litters are toxic and if the rabbit eats them it could cause bowel blockage. It is always safer and much cheaper to go rabbit safe products such as the paper based litter or the untreated aspen chips that are locally found.

Buying a cage.

The cage has to be three to six times the size of the rabbit. The first stage of training is to confine your rabbit to a cage with food, water and a hide in one half, and the litter tray in the other. The restricted space inspires your rabbit to not soil her living area, and toilet in the tray.

Good quality hay

Good quality hay is used to lure the rabbits in the litter box. It is a universal fact that rabbits like munching on a fresh snack every time they are toileting.

A litter scoop and disinfectant.

This will be used to scoop out the litter together with the urine on a daily basis. The litter box or the cage needs to be disinfected at least once a week. Using specially designed disinfectant meant for small animals will ensure safety of the rabbits and reduce changes of their deaths.

Set up a bedding and food station in the cage. Put bedding at the other side of the cage and set up her food, water, and a hide. This will give her somewhere to hide and feel secure.

Place litter boxes in other areas of the house. Put out several boxes in areas your rabbit spends time or exercises in. The more litter boxes you have, the more likely it is the rabbit will use one of them.

Before familiarizing your bunny to the litter box for the first time, watch it and pay attention to where it does its business. Characteristically, it will be the back corner. Once you've recognized your bunny's favorite area, place a box in that spot.

Begin training your new rabbit as soon as you bring her home.

Adult rabbits learn more quickly than young rabbits. Nonetheless, it's never too early to start litter training. Make a tray accessible as soon as you bring a new rabbit home, and start to teach her how to use it. Just be tolerant and she will sooner or later learn. When the rabbits poops outside the litter box, scoop up the mess and put them in the box and this will act as a hint for the rabbits as where he ought to go.

Consider sterilizing or spaying your rabbit.

Uncastrated mature rabbits are more defensive and territorial and they use their scent to claim their space. Castrating or spaying your rabbits will make it much easier to litter train her because her needs to be territorial are vastly reduced.

Teach your rabbit to use the litter box in her cage.

Confine the rabbit to the cage with its tray, so that the rabbit learns not to soil the eating and sleeping area. It only takes a couple of days to train them. Once the rabbit understands this, you can start letting the rabbit out.

Let your rabbit out of her cage for brief periods of time. When you allow her out to exercise, if she squats to the toilet, gently pick her up and place her in the litter box that's in her cage. A sign the rabbit is about to eliminate is that she raises her tail in the air slightly. You need to be vigilant for this, but it does help if you can catch her in time.

In the early stages of training, do not let her out for more than ten minutes at a time, and do not leave her unsupervised in a room. Once she is using a tray regularly, you can relax your attention and let her have more freedom.
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How to potty train your baby bunny in 4 steps

 

Now that you have everything ready, here are the steps on how to potty train your baby bunny:

 

1) Set up the litter box inside the cage or pen.

 

Place some newspaper or paper towel at the bottom of the litter box, then add some litter material on top of it. Put some of your bunny's droppings inside the litter box too, so that it recognizes its own scent there-.

 

2) Place hay and food bowls near the litter box.

 

Put some fresh hay inside or on top of the litter box, so that your bunny can nibble on it while using it. Also place its food bowl nearby (but not inside) so that it associates eating with pooping-.

 

3) Confine your baby bunny inside the cage or pen.

 

For at least one week (or until it consistently uses only one spot), keep your baby bunny inside its cage or pen with access only to its food bowl water bottle hidey house and litter box

This will help it learn to not soil its living area, and toilet in the litter box instead-

 

4) Gradually expand its space outside the cage or pen

 

Once your baby bunny has mastered using the litter box inside the cage or pen, you can start letting it out for supervised playtime in other areas of the house However, you should also place additional litter boxes in those areas, especially in corners, as rabbits tend to choose corners for their toilet needs If you notice any accidents outside, gently pick up your bunny and place it back into its original litter box This will reinforce where it should go-

Can You Potty Train a Duck? What Owners Need to Know

Potty Training A Duck

In this article we are going to review five major steps to follow for successful potty training a duck.

Step 1:

Come up with a list of the ducks behaviours and the conditions behind these behaviours. There may be different lists for different ducks after all not all the ducks are the same. As soon as you make the list, confine your duck’s diet to keep it hungry for some time without causing malnourishment. Hunger is one of the motivators to make the duck seek rewards that come in form of food and therefore the duck will be willing to change its behaviours in order to be rewarded.

Step 2:

Select those behaviors from the list likely to bring the duck closer to the eventually intended one, such as taking a step toward the toilet. Then either cause the conditions likely to encourage that action and reward it or simply reward its spontaneous occurrence. Rewarding the behavior without providing a condition to induce it will require some intuition to time the reward correctly. Giving the reward even a second too late may teach the duck to associate an utterly different behavior to the reward or may leave it with no association at all. However, the duck may also simplify the behavior and this may lead to impulsive correct behaviors.

Step 3:

Give the duck larger incentives for reaching the base of the toilet and change its reward schedule from individual rewards for each step to a large reward for going to this location. According to many behaviorists, you can change from one pattern of reward to the other without transition, but the duck may temporarily stop performing the desired behavior before coming to understand the new system. From this point, begin giving the duck small rewards for behaviors likely to place the duck on top of the toilet and in the correct position to defecate or urinate.

Step 4:

Give the duck large rewards for positioning itself over the opening of the toilet seat and again change its reward schedule from a succession of individual rewards for each individual step toward that position to a larger, single reward for being there. Now wait for the duck to defecate or urinate into the toilet and then reward each event of that behavior and substitute the rewards for placing itself on the opening of the toilet with one for using it.

Step 5:

Last but not least, make your rewards for the completed behavior less frequent and ultimately, more random. A constant reward does build behavior faster than any other system, but casual rewards will set a behavior more deeply. This randomness will therefore spare you from having to reward the behavior during pressing tasks or in your absence. By the end of this process, you will have trained your duck.

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